Shaft Care
By Bryan Mordt
Darrel from Florida writes...
Q. Bryan,
Thanks for your time; I know how valuable it is. I would like to know what your routine is for shaft care. Currently, I use a damp towel to clean it and that's about it. I also have some 1500 grit sandpaper, but I'm concerned about wearing down the shaft. I've been considering using either wax or Cue silk, but I don't want anything on the cue that will collect dirt. My last question is how do you clean the ferrule?
A. Hello Darrel:
I trying to be more conservative with my shaft care these days. Once the shaft has been professionally finished I tell people to only use a soft towel to wipe down the shaft. Nothing else. I think wax tends to get tacky after a while so I stopped using that. I replaced it with Cue Silk, a silicone type product for making the shaft slick. It seems to work better for me.
You've chosen a safe grit of sandpaper to work your shafts with. Anything 1200 grit and higher is a safe bet. Those higher grits are doing more in the way of polishing than removing material.
For keeping your ferrule clean, always use newer pieces of chalk. That ring around the ferrule will stop. Some ferrules are prone to getting dirty. I would try some Fast Orange hand cleaner. It work well for removing stains and dirt from the shaft and ferrule. Just use a slightly damp sponge and a generous amount of Fast Orange then wipe clean with a soft paper towel.
John asks...
Q. Bryan,
How will it affect the cue tip if it gets wet?
A.
It just depends on the leather. I have soaked tips such as the Elk Master to improve their stability. I also viced them over night. What will happen in general I do not know. I would think that all would be fine once the tip has dried thoroughly.
Kosi from Indonesia writes...
Q. Dear Sir,
I saw that you've been kind to share your knowledge and experienced about cue to others, so I plan to buy viking platinum series cue (P9), do you have any opinion, is it worth it to custom fit it with predator 314 shaft...
Thank You
Regards
Kosi Kausar (Indonesia)
A. Dear Kosi:
I think Viking makes a fine cue and that you will be completely happy with the shaft that comes from the factory. I will say that Predator does make a good shaft and I have played with them in the past but I don't think the difference is significant.
A visitor writes...
Q. Bryan,
Unlike some of your other questions related to $1000 cue sticks, I purchased 4 ProSport Graphite cue sticks from Service Merchandise for $35 a piece (50%off). I didn't want to offer my friends the wooden sticks you get when you purchase a table. Any thoughts on this type of cue? I'm a big boy, I can take an honest opinion!
A.
For casual play those graphite's will be fine. However, I have yet to feel a graphite or fiberglass cue that has a feel as nice as an all wood cue. I would always pick all wood. That's not to say that all wood cues can't suck. Many can and do with amazing regularity. One example is any cue with a Ramin wood shaft. Ramin wood is a very cheap wood that has a yellowish brown color to it and is always covered in heavy coats of finish. Stay away from those and look for the best cue you can afford. You'll be happier in the long run.
Fred asks...
Q. Dear Bryan,
I have an Excalibur fiber glass bonded with a wood core. Somehow when I put it together last night the part of the screw that's in the top half of the stick stripped out enabling me to take apart. Is there any way to replace the connector piece because it as made unbalanced in the center or should I use it as a one-piece break stick. Any help will be appreciated.
A. Hello Fred:
I'm sorry to hear about your cue. I wish there was an easy fix for this type of problem but there's not. I would encourage you to invest the same or a bit more money to get a better quality cue (all wood).
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