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Kosi from Indonesia writes...
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Q.
Dear Sir,
I saw that you've been kind to share your knowledge and experienced about cue to others, so I plan to buy viking platinum series cue (P9), do you have any opinion, is it worth it to custom fit it with predator 314 shaft...
Thank You
Regards
Kosi Kausar (Indonesia)
A.
Dear Kosi:
I think Viking makes a fine cue and that you will be completely happy with the shaft that comes from the factory. I will say that Predator does make a good shaft and I have played with them in the past but I don't think the difference is significant.
Regards,
Bryan
Q.
Bryan,
How will it affect the cue tip if it gets wet?
A.
It just depends on the leather. I have soaked tips such as the Elk Master to improve their stability. I also viced them over night. What will happen in general I do not know. I would think that all would be fine once the tip has dried thoroughly.
Bryan
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Darrel from Florida writes...
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Q.
Bryan,
Thanks for your time; I know how valuable it is. I would like to know whatyour routine is for shaft care. Currently, I use a damp towel to clean it and that's about it. I also have some 1500 grit sandpaper, but I'm concerned about wearing down the shaft. I've been considering using either wax or Cue silk, but I don't want anything on the cue that will collect dirt. My last question is how do you clean the ferrule?
A.
Hello Darrel:
I trying to be more conservative with my shaft care these days. Once the
shaft has been professionally finished I tell people to only use a soft towel to wipe down the shaft. Nothing else. I think wax tends to get tacky after a while so I stopped using that. I replaced it with Cue Silk, a silicone type product for making the shaft slick. It seems to work better for me.
You've chosen a safe grit of sandpaper to work your shafts with. Anything
1200 grit and higher is a safe bet. Those higher grits are doing more in the way of polishing than removing material.
For keeping your ferrule clean, always use newer pieces of chalk. That ring around the ferrule will stop. Some ferrules are prone to getting dirty. I would try some Fast Orange hand cleaner. It work well for removing stains and dirt from the shaft and ferrule. Just use a slightly damp sponge and a generous amount of Fast Orange then wipe clean with a soft paper towel.
Bryan
Q.
Bryan,
Unlike some of your other questions related to $1000 cue sticks, I purchased 4 ProSport Graphite cue sticks from Service Merchandise for $35 a piece (50%off). I didn't want to offer my friends the wooden sticks you get when you purchase a table. Any thoughts on this type of cue? I'm a big boy, I can take an honest opinion!
A.
For casual play those graphite's will be fine. However, I have yet to feel a graphite or fiberglass cue that has a feel as nice as an all wood cue. I would always pick all wood. That's not to say that all wood cues can't suck. Many can and do with amazing regularity. One example is any cue with a Ramin wood shaft. Ramin wood is a very cheap wood that has a yellowish brown color
to it and is always covered in heavy coats of finish. Stay away from those and look for the best cue you can afford. You'll be happier in the long run.
Good luck,
Bryan
Q.
Dear Bryan,
I have an Excalibur fiber glass bonded with a wood
core. Somehow when I put it together last night the part of the screw that's in the top half of the stick stripped out enabling me to take apart. Is there any way to replace the connector piece because it as made unbalanced in the center or should I use it as a one-piece break stick. Any help will be appreciated.
A.
Hello Fred:
I'm sorry to hear about your cue. I wish there was an easy fix for this type of problem but there's not. I would encourage you to invest the same or a bit more money to get a better quality cue (all wood).
Bryan
Q.
I'm a college student in Michigan, and I know of no
stores around here to buy a good cue. I was looking
online at several, but I don't know if I should buy
wood, graphite, or fiberglass. I'm looking to spend
about $120. I also don't know how heavy I should get
it. Is there any advantages to a heavier or lighter
cue? Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I
have no experience in this area. Thanks.
A.
Hi Mark:
I would personally pick wood over any fiberglass or graphite cues on the market. Viking has an model that sells for $120. It has a maple shaft, exotic hardwood, good ferrule / tip, and Irish linen wrap. It's a hard deal to beat. Also check out McDermott. Weight is a personal preference but most people
tend to prefer cues in the 19 ounce range.
Q.
I have an Original Palmer w/two shafts. About 25 to 30 years old.
On Aug. 17, 2000 I was told that the stick was valued between $1200 to $2500.
I do not have a book to verify this. Can you help?
Frank T
A.
Hello Frank:
Palmer cues are collected by people but I would have to say that it is a buyers market. When it comes to collectibles mint condition means everything. If it is in mint condition you may be able to get close to a $1000. Very few cues sell in $2000 and up range. Check out Ebay and look at what some old Palmer's are going for. That might give you an idea to the market value.
You might even put it on Ebay with a very high reserve just to see what the bidding is like. If you decide to do that take some very nice pictures and include as much information as possible about the cue. The cue nerds that constantly search Ebay will do the rest.
Good luck!
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Kavin from Winslow asks...
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Q.
My name is Kavin. would you be able to give me any information on a McDermott and also a Minn. Fats (has a photo on the stick) cue stick made by a DMI sports.
We have both of these sticks on dead pawn (matured) and simply when it comes to cue sticks, we are rather dumb.
Any info. you can send my way would be greatly appreciated.
Thankyou.
Sincerely,
Kavin Moore
Moore and Moore Pawn
A.
Hello Kavin:
Thanks for your question. McDermott cue's are good production cues they generally retail from $165 to $800. I can't offer the same credits to your Minnesota Fats cue. They are cheap imports they have little value.
Have a good day,
Bryan
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Ryan from Washington writes...
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Q.
Hi there! I have a Viking Cue, and recently the tip fired off during a break... I play at a local all ages place and the house pro said he would replace the tip for $7. He put a new Le Pro on it... and within 2 days it popped back off... he said he would try again with an Elk Master. And again it popped off not by shooting, but I tested it before by putting slight pressure in it with my thumb. I know he's capable of replacing tips, because I've known him for over 2 years and I've seen his work hold... but he seems to think that Viking Cue ferrules are made
of a different material than say a Meucci or McDermott. Can you give any insight to what materials he could use? (i.e. tip, tip cement,. etc...) Also, do you know if the ferrules are made of different material? Thanks for your time!
Ryan Jessup, WA
A.
Hi Ryan:
I get the chance to work on every kind of cue imaginable. Vikings are no exception. If your Viking cue has the original ferrule on it then there should be no problem. Changing to a different tip will not remedy this problem. There are very few things that can cause a tip to come off. They are:
1. The bottom of the tip was not sanded flat.
2. The ferrule was not faced properly.
3. The adhesive was bad.
That being said let me take a moment to discuss an exception that I have encountered. Fiber ferrules are prone to losing their tips. The reason being that it is not a stable material. It expands when exposed to moisture. It also lacks a solid top so the tip is being glued to 2 different surfaces instead of one. My advice for ferrule replacements, never get a fiber ferrule. I hope this information helps.
Good luck!
Q.
Really enjoy your column. You are very forthright with your answers. I shoot with an Al Romero Sneaky Pete and a Cousins Custom Cue by Gary Wright. They are both excellent. I use Larry Moran's "Shark Oil" with a 12000 grit abrasive that works perfect for me. I would like your opinion on a good tip. There are many new layered tips that seem appealing. I was suprised that my Cousins came with an inexpensive Le Pro Tip and am thinking of changing. What do you like?
Julian
A.
Hi Julian:
Thanks for the kind words. My favorite tips right now are as follows:
WB brand (hard - single layer water buffalo)
Hercules (medium - layered pig skin)
Instroke (medium - layered pig skin)
Moori (medium - layered pig skin)
I like these tips because the all hold their shape well and mushroom very little. They are all very consistent from one to tip to the next.
Q.
Dear Bryan,
I am a former Phoenecian now living in Singapore for six years. I have just dusted off my cue, unused for almost ten years because my daughter has developed an interest in 8 Ball. When I went out to practice yesterday, I was chagrined to notice that the balls used locally are much smaller than 'standard'. They are not as small as snooker balls, but are much smaller than American standard. My cue has a 13mm shaft, and against those small balls, it looks HUGE. One issue is cueing low enough to establish draw. I feel like I am going to make a jump everytime I try, and usually end up with a 'stop' shot with no draw... I think the locals must be using around 8 mm or less by what I see on the wall rack. I looked in the snooker cues sections on the net, and see that they make cues from 8mm-12mm.
Is there a company you can recommend which makes shafts of different dimensions? I see lots at 13, and a few at 12, but nothing smaller. I used to have a great old stick that I bought at A.E. Schmidt in St. Louis, but it disappeared in a move years ago. It had a 13 and 10 mm shaft set with it. If I ask, will some of the 'name' companies make a couple of sticks for myself and my daughter, 13 and 10 mm shafts? We plan to be here a few years longer, and I would like to enjoy the game again.
Thanks,
Raleigh
A.
Hello Raleigh,
Many cue companies will allow the customer to make size changes in their shafts. I know that Viking cues offers this at no charge to their customers, others may as well. When I take a custom order for a cue the customer is always welcome to specify shaft size as well as other options. When tapering
shafts to the 9 to 12 mm range its important that taper be modified somewhat from an original "pro taper" to a conventional straight taper. This is noticed in all snooker and billiard cues.
If you are interested in something custom or production at a reasonable price please feel free to contact me.
Good luck,
Bryan Mordt
Q.
Dear Bryan,
My name is Steven Van Eaton and about 25 years ago I bought a Josh Enterprises pool cue. It was left sitting up and the end of one of the shafts warped. Do you know of any information on the Josh cues and anyone that could repair the shaft or manufacture a duplicate with my joint and ferrule? It was made by Josh himself back in my 9 ball ring game days. Any help would be appreciated.
A.
Steven,
Joss cues is still in business and could easily replace your warped shaft.
Take a look at their website at:
www.josscues.com
Q.
Dear Bryan,
I am considering purchasing a Meucci SE4 from a friend. The cue is in good condition, however, it could possibly use a new tip. I was wondering what you feel would be a fair price to pay for it.
A.
Hello Shannon,
When it comes to used production cues like Meucci for example you can usually find them for 50% of their original retail price. I wouldn't pay more. Custom or collectable cues can often hold or increase in value.
Q.
Bryan,
My name is David. I was wondering which cue is better to you, Cuetec or Meucci. I can't decide which one to buy. I want to buy a Meucci but it's too expensive. Do you know anybody that sells any kind of Meucci under $150? If so, can you email me some information? Thanks
A.
David,
CueTec and Meucci are 2 really different types of cues. The main difference
being the fiberglass laminate over the CueTec shaft. It will have a much
different feel than the Meucci's all wood shaft. I really prefer the feel of
wood over the fiberglass laminate type. However, the CueTec's are very
durable and priced right if your on a budget.
You should be able to find Meucci's used in the price range you mentioned. If
there are none in your area then I would look into Ebay for a possible deal.
Q.
Bryan,
Can 2000 grit sandpaper be used fairly often with no ill effects, and
do the Players line of cues come out of the same plant as the Lucasi line, if so is there that great a difference in play.
A.
Hi John,
Using 2000 grit sandpaper often will only be polishing your shafts surface. It will do no harm. As far as the Players and Lucasi brand cues, I believe both are imports. The quality of the Lucasi cues will be higher than that of the Players.
Q.
I would like to try a new tip on my break/jump cue and my shooting cue. I want to try the new Instroke 11 layer laminated tips, these tips are only available in 14mm size.
My cues have 13mm shafts/ferrules. I always have my tips replaced by a pro, would it be any problem to have him resize the new tips so they fit properly on my cues?
A.
Absolutely not. In fact most tip replacements work best when using a tip that is oversized. It is then turned down on the lathe to match the ferrule diameter exactly. )
Q.
I would like to purchase my second cue stick, I bought my first one at Sears for $15. I thought I wouldn't be playing pool often so I bought one just to have when I do play. But now, I play more than I thought. Now, I would like to buy a good one for an intermediate player with a budget of less than $100. What brand? Where in North Phoenix can you find a reputable dealer? What are great questions to ask the dealer about cue sticks without sounding dumb? What should I look for? I like to play with a 19oz. Is there a difference with oz or is it just about the feel? What kind of tips are recommended? Where is a great place to replace them? Thanks for your time.
A.
Here is my pick for best cue values in the $90 to $200 range: Dufferin, Viking, McDermott and any custom made sneaky pete. If your in the Phoenix area please feel free to stop in my shop. It's located inside Pappy's Sports Bar, 11801 N. 19th Ave. If you stop in I will be happy to talk shop. :o)
Q.
I am looking for a certain cue. I've seen a player on ESPN using it. It's black (ebony?) with either 3 or 4 alternating orange points with a leather wrap and a black joint with white rings. The problem is, I'm pretty sure the cue is a Southwest, which I can't afford right now. I've looked all over the internet
and the only one that comes even remotely close is a Meucci PP2. My question is, does Meucci customize existing cues? how can I find a cue like this without paying thousands for a custom cue? Is it possible? Any help is greatly appreciated.
A.
OK, good question here. Southwest cues are in high demand for a reason. They are superb custom cues and you will be hard pressed to find one anywhere cheap. In this case you get what you pay for. You can check out Ebay but expect to pay over $1200 for a used six pointer.
To my knowledge Meucci doesn't customize existing cues.
You certainly can find some very nice cues (Southwest design) for under the big G note. If you care to contact me personally I would be happy to give you more information and pictures. Nice cues from intermediate cuemakers can be found between $300 and $600.
Regards,
Bryan
email: bryan34739@aol.com
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Yushi from Canada asks...
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Q.
I try to polish my cue shaft to remove coating material to smooth it up. However, like you said I want to use the sand-paper grit #800 or more but I have problem to find that kinds of sand-paper anywhere here. I am very appriciate if you know where you find them in general. By the way, I tried hardware stores and pint stores already in Ottawa, Canada!!
Thank you !
A.
A great place to find the higher grit sandpaper is at automotive paint stores or body shops. It's widely used for sanding out defects in automotive paints.
Just a note on abrasives. Sandpaper in grits higher than 800 are basically just polishing. You won't be removing any noticeable amounts of material from a shaft.
Thanks for the good question!
Q.
My name is David Tran and I was wondering if scuffing my tip will mess it up? My dad told me it will if I play straight rail billiards because the ball is bigger than 9-ball pool? Also, what is the best brand of cue I should use to play with straight rail billiards?
A.
Hello David:
I always recommend that players keep their scuffing to a minimum. The reason being that most people tend to over due it. They grind the tip down before they know it. A good tip should hold its shape fairly well and only require occasional work.
As far as cues for straight rail billiards... You will need a 'billiard' cue and not a 'pool' cue. There are big differences in how these cues perform. They are each designed in a way that lends itself to the game being played. Examples of such games include pool, snooker and billiards. Each discipline has its unique tool for the job.
For 3 cushion and straight rail I personally recommend Helmstetter carom cues. The are priced reasonably and play well.
Regards,
Bryan
Q.
Hi there,
I have just bought my first cue - a Riley dark coloured one. Somehow it doesn't feel smooth at all. Instead it squeeks whenever I try to take a shot. I'm really upset about it as it was pretty expensive. Any advice on what to do?
p.s My friends claim that it's laquered as the wood is too soft and that I cannot do anything about it.
Thank You,
bek
A.
Hello Bek:
It sounds like you may have a snooker cue. I rarely work on these types of cue but have had some experience. Most of the snooker cues from Europe that I have seen are primarily made out of Ash. Ash is a very open grained and usually has some kind of sealer or lacquer to fill the grain. Sometimes maple shafts are treated in a similar way. This is where the problem lies. The texture of the wood is not being felt, it's the lacquer. To try and correct this you need to resurface the shaft or better yet have an experienced cue man help you. If you don't then your results may not be as great. If you choose to do it yourself here are some thoughts:
The idea with resurfacing is to strip down the lacquer without removing the wood or taking the shaft out of round. This is likely to happen if you do it by hand because you may have to use fairly abrasive sandpaper to start (220 grit). Use all the grits 220 thru 1200 and you should get that shaft in better shape.
Remember not to sand to heavy with the lower grits. It's easy to take the shaft out of round.
Use even pressure behind the sanding.
Use a sanding block behind the sandpaper for best results.
Don't be in a rush it may take a while by hand.
Good luck!
Q.
Hi Brian
I am about to buy my first pool cue. Two questions. From what I have read the standard tip diameter is 13 mm. I assume someone long ago figured out that this is the correct size. The house cues I use look smaller. Is tip size a personal preference or is there a correct size?
Secondly all new tips I have looked at have a square shoulder. All house cues I have used are worn to various degrees. Should I remove the shoulder on a new tip by sanding or leave it square? If yes how do you suggest rounding the new tip? If no after use the shoulder will be rounded by chalkings. Is this the time to replace the tip? ie should the tip always be square to the shaft?
Thanks
Paul
A.
Hello Paul,
Tip size is certainly personal preference. You will find 13 mm standard on most cues however you can always have a shaft resized and retapered to fit your needs.
It's a good idea to put a small radius on your tip. Most people choose to use a nickel or dime type radius. If you don't have a cue mechanic around your area I would suggest using a shaper tool like a cue cube or some 120 grit sandpaper cupped in your hand. If use decide to use sandpaper always use downward strokes for best results.
Regards,
Bryan Mordt
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Phillip from Tucson asks...
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Q.
I just bought a 19oz Cuetec cue, it's an Earl Strickland series I believe. Is there anything you can tell me about this cue? I.E. quality and care. Thank you sir.
Phillip
Tucson AZ
A.
The Cue-Tec is probably the best fiberglass coated cue on the market. It's definitely a decent import and a good price. Care is simple. Wipe it down with a towel and your done. :o)
Q.
Just wanted to know if you ever heard of a Lucasi Model XIV and how much it would go for. I can't seem to find information on this anywhere..
A.
Check out Cue & Case from Florida. I believe they are distributors of the Lucasi line.
Q.
Hello Bryan,
My question is about replacement shafts. I have about 6 Meucci's and 2 McDermott's. The McDermott, well they are wanting to much for a replacement plus another 6 weeks. Cost of the stick new was $180.00, I can't see paying $100.00 for just the shaft. Where I am there's not really any reliable places. Can you give me anyone that may be cheaper and reliable? (Also I hear that for dings in the shaft) To remove them you can use a wet rag and a iron, how well does this work or does it? What is the best way to remove them without sanding on them?
Thanks Byran for any hints or recommendations you may have.
Thomas Ingram
A.
Hi Thomas,
$100 for a replacement shaft is not out of line if it is well made. The shaft is a critical part of your cue and a properly made shaft from seasoned maple is not cheap. If you like the cue then consider a great investment. It's not like you need to buy a new shaft every 6 months. :o) As for the dings... Try this:
1. Fold up a paper towel and wet a corner.
2. Take a hot iron and press it to the paper towel lying over your dent. Use caution not to OVER do it. Heat it for a few seconds then check your progress. You may also have to re-wet the paper towel's corner.
3. If the dent is gone then dry off your shaft and polish it with 1000 to 1500 grit paper.
Q.
I have a Viking pool stick and I used it for breaking as well as playing. Is breaking bad for the pool stick?
A.
Viking's as well as any other quality cue are suited for breaking. The only thing you'll do is add more wear to your tip. That is it.
Q.
I live in the Philippines where I don't get much help from the people in the shops where I'm planning to buy my cue stick. Anyways, I read that a cue stick where you can take off the tip is not good. So that is off my list of cue sticks. Most of the cue sticks here that I see are made in Taiwan, so I'm not so sure what to buy now. Anyways I did see one that is made of graphite and it felt pretty good and looks good too. Now, are graphite cue sticks good? The price is about $80.00. Any help that you can give me will really help me on deciding what to buy...
Thanks...
A.
Graphite sticks do not compare in quality to well made all wood cues. Stick to a quality cue. For example, you can get into a low end Viking cue for $120. It will be FAR better than any graphite.
Good luck.
Q.
Is it better to store cues vertical in a rack or in a case?
A.
I would always prefer a good case.
Q.
Dear Bryan,
I have a Meucci sneaky pete that I have had for over 20 yrs. A lot of my friends have bought new ones that do not compare to mine. What is the difference in mine and the new ones? I also
was thinking about getting it refinished. I would like to make it a custom cue. Would it be very expensive to do?
A.
The difference would be hard for me to say without seeing & playing with your cue. You may have gotten lucky and just have a great cue. Look to spend about $125 for a quality refinish. I don't understand what you mean by making it a custom cue. Maybe you could elaborate.
Q.
Dear Bryan,
I am from Singapore. I would like to ask how i could keep my cue glossy and smooth. What should I apply to my cue?
Thanks
A.
I would only use sandpaper in grits higher than 600. Avoid using
chemicals in general. Shaft Silk is one product that I use. It will reduce drag on a smooth shaft.
Q.
What is the proper way to scuff a pool cue?
A.
I recommend scuffing as little as possible. When you do scuff use light pressure and downward strokes. Avoid regular scuffing. If the tip is not holding chalk well it may be time for a new tip.
Q.
I just bought a new graphite stick, it is my first stick so I figured to buy graphite because they said that it was strong. Well anyways, I was wondering on how to get more grip on the cue ball because everytime I draw back in my game, the ball doesn't go back far enough. What kind of tip do I use to get more grip on the ball?
A.
The problem here is most likely the cue you have chosen. Graphite cue are durable but certainly lack the nice feel & playability of an all wood cue. I would suggest looking into a quality all wood cue. I have many people ask me about tips and getting "good english." I like a tip that mushrooms little and keeps a nice radius. Right now I use the WB brand of water buffalo tips on my
personal cue.
Q.
I have been searching my area and the web. I can not find anyone selling lathe accessories for building shafts. Do you know where I can purchase lathe accessories for making and repairing tips and shafts?
A.
This is a good question. If you have a lathe already you will have to modify it to turn shafts. This a subject a little to involved for this forum. I could spend hours talking about this one subject. You can call me at the shop if you like, 602-371-3992.
Q.
Bryan,
I was wondering who made the players professional series cue? I bought it at a store for $135 and was also wondering if that was a good price.
A.
I believe that's an import from Taiwan. That's not a bad price for a starter cue. Most Players cues should go for under $100.
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Chris in Alabama writes...
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Q.
I am a league and competition player and I'd like to learn how to replace my own tips. As you can guess I carry around some pretty expensive lumber and I'd like to get all the info I can before attempting to do so. Would you please send me your best step by step or recommend a top notch book or just something that would shed some light?
Thank you,
A.
I can never recommend someone doing their own tip replacement. Unless they happen to have all the right tools and experience. It sounds like such a simple thing "changing a tip," and it is simple if you have a lathe and the other things to do a great job. I honestly consider it crazy not to spend $10 to have a pro do it. The results are so much better and you have no headache with it. You are in a fix if you don't have someone local. You could look online for the Pool & Billiards FAQ. They should have a step by step for do it yourself types. Good luck!
Bryan
Q.
I have a 25 year old Viking cue that is not worth the money to send out, yet I would like to try to recondition the shaft myself. It has a few small nicks in it that I would like to fill. What do I use? What is used to finish coat the shaft? Laquer, varnish, or polyurethane? The ferrule is also broken. I have the capability to machine a new one but I can't find a blank. The local shops that carry Viking want to send the stick out and have one made and fitted. By the time I pay for shipping both ways and a profesional to do the work, This entry level Viking will cost more than it's worth. Last question. What is the normal life expectancy for cushions on a table with moderate use.
Jerry
A.
OK Jerry you asked a lot of questions and I'll take a shot at some.
Refinishing shafts is a staple at the pro shop. I do a ton. If you don't have access to a lathe then I suggest letting someone who does handle this. The reason is many players take their shaft out of round by hand sanding or they slowly change the taper. Both of these results are bad. If you do have access to the lathe here are some tips:
Refinishing a Shaft
1. I'll use the following grits in various degrees depending on the condition of the shaft: 220, 320, 400, 600, 1000, 1200, 1500, and 2000.
2. I don't skip through any of these grits as to maintain the BEST surface finish.
3. Sandpaper grits higher than 600 are used for polishing the shaft.
4. Use a very high RPM. You'll get a better surface.
5. Using a sanding block is a must! You need it to keep the sanded surface flat.
6. Don't sand in one spot too long. Keep your sandpaper moving. You don't want to get your shaft hot.
7. There are many things used to top off the shaft. I can recommend Shaft Silk from KC Innovations. It's a favorite of mine. Some people use cue wax. There's no end to stuff being used.
These are some tips you may find useful when working with a shafts finish. The process I mentioned can remove anywhere from .003" to .010" from the diameter of the shaft. You have to consider this when refinishing a shaft. All the minor nicks should come out easily.
Now for the ferrule... Viking has an unusual ferrule design. The ferrule is connected using a short tenon and a 1/4 - 20 type stud. I don't recommend this being done by a novice. It would be worth it to have that replaced by a professional. If your quoted a price and want to know if it's fair email me the details for a comment.
bryan34739@aol.com
Jerry I am not an expert in Table Repair department so I can't comment on the cushions. Cues ... yes. Have a good one!
Bryan
Q.
My son accidently broke the top half of his sisters cue stick. I don't know the brand of the stick but I would like to get it fixed instead of replacing it with a new stick. Is there anyone who will repair cue sticks at a resonable price.
A.
A lot depends on the make of the cue. You can expect to pay between $30 to $125 for a replacement shaft. There are many people who will do repair work on pool cues. Just ask around and try to get an established person.
Bryan
Q.
HI Bryan,
Hey love the Q & A. I'm a woodworker and would like to make 3 cue sticks (for my father, brother, and myself). My question is where can I purchase high quality stainless steel joints? No one locally sells them. Can I buy them from the manufacturer? Does uni-loc have a web site?
Thanks, Vince
A.
Hi Vince,
There are a few sources for stainless steel joints. Here are a couple of the major ones:
Atlas Billiard Supply 1-800-283-7845
Prather Cue Parts 1-800-364-6913
Good luck with the cues Vince.
Bryan
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Stephanie in Canada writes...
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Q.
I recently bought my first cue. It is just a Dufferin simple cue. What I would like to know is how to store it when I am not playing? I have a hard case and know the keep it out of the elements stuff so -what position is best lying down or standing up? What can I do to keep the cue straight? What do I need to do for cue care and what needs to be done to a new cue as far as the tip goes? Does it need to be shaped? Anyway thanks for any advice to a fair bar player with her first cue.
A.
Hello Stephanie,
Store your cue (inside it's case) in a place where the temperature and humidity are stable. I don't feel laying the cue in one position over another has much affect. The keys to keeping your cue straight is avoiding high and low temps; Avoid getting the cue wet too. Because most cues are made from wood mother nature has some say in the matter. New cues will most often need their tip shaped. All cue work is best accomplished on a lathe with all the right tools. Hopefully you have a cue pro in your area. I would first seek him or her out for their experience. If you don't then you may want to get a
cue cube, tapper, or tip pick. These are some of the many handy little tools for working on your tip. The main trick is not to OVER use them. Many people get carried away with them.
Good luck!
Q.
I just purchased what turned out to be a cue stick at a yard sale. I was wondering if is was worth anything?
It is a wooden walking stick / cue stick combo. The walking stick has carvings that look like a flower and fish. The wood is cherry wood. The round ball (brass) that you hold the walking stick with comes off and the pool cue comes out. The cue part then screws on to the end of the walking stick. The main cue stick looks like it has never been used. There are no makings on the cue itself.
A.
Hello Cindy,
The cue you described is not uncommon. It is an inexpensive import and more of a novelty item than anything. Now if you find any of those junky Szambotti's or Balabushka's please let me know. :o)
Q.
Can you tell me the advantages of the different joints used on cues? 5/16-14, 5-16-18, 3/8-10, uni-loc, radial. Thanks for your help
A.
This is a great question. There are many, many different types of cue joints out there today. I think the new joints are interesting and have tried a few in some of my own custom cues. What I have found is that any joint, installed correctly has no advantage whatsoever for the end user. Now, as a cuemaker these different joints have their own merit. Some require more or less steps to install. Sometimes cost is a factor. I occasionally get asked about steel joints vs. wood to wood. Same answer. I feel the hit changes very little if at all. Shaft taper, ferrule material, and tip make the most noticeable
differences in cue playability.
Q.
Bryan,
I am looking at putting a small pool table in one of my rooms at my
house. The dimensions that I get from several sites on the net say the I can get a six foot table with all stick sizes and a seven foot up to a 52" inch cue. The measurements of this room are 12' 5" X 16' 5". Is this an accurate statement and could you also tell me the most common length of pool cues.
Thanks, Mike
A.
Mike
The smallest pool table I'm familiar with is the 3 and half by 7 (bar size). The standard length on pool cues is 58". Most people don't give themselves enough room for a pool table, even the 3 and half by 7. I would say 6 feet around the table would work well but more is better.
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Gary in Oklahoma writes...
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Q.
Bryan,
I sell cues and accessories out of my garage as a means to support my passion for pool. I have moved to a major city with a metro population of over 3 mil. and there seems to be only a couple of places to get cue maintenance or repair. I have a sizable area to work in so I am thinking of expanding my services which would include the purchase of a lathe. Can you recomend one that would allow me to do wraps, tip work, shaft cleaning and repair. I have no vision of being a cue maker except maybe put together some sneaky petes. I know there are teaching videos
etc. Is there one that is particularly good. Thanks in advance for your input.
A.
Hello Gary
There are a few options out there for lathes that will work well for the cue repair business. In my pro shop I have one of Joe Porpers machines, the model C I believe. It's a fairly good machine that will let you do most repairs effectively. It is a bit pricey at $3200. I also have done some modifications to suit my needs. All in all I think it's the best cue machine available.
Another option is to buy a regular machine lathe. A new one can be purchased for under $3000 but you will need to adapt it to cue repair and buy the tooling. Tooling adds up quick. You may be able to find a used lathe. I have a friend who found one for $400, he cleaned it up and uses it often. If you are a nut about precision I would go with the regular bench lathe, a 12" x
36" will do nicely.
Okay, now onto teaching videos. The Porper machine comes with a video highlighting its operation. I give it B-. Dennis Deikman had a series of videos out but I thought they were a bit overpriced, grade B. In all honesty it takes time & patience to get good at cue repair. I learned a lot from trial & error. I was also fortunate to have worked at Sierra custom cues where I learned a lot about machining and the cuemaking process. Good luck and be careful not to lose any fingers in that lathe. :o)
Bryan's Pro Shop 602-371-3992
email: bryan34739@aol.com
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Alain at Hotmail writes...
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Q.
Hi. I'm planning to buy a cue stick. Can you tell me how or what to buy on my first one. Absolutely no idea on how to do it? How about the weight, etc?
A.
This is a great question.
I would first try to find your local pro shop for help. Their experience in these matters will be helpful and you'll get service after the sale. There are different ways to look at this question. What is your budget? What is your taste? Most cues being made today have a 13 mm shaft diameter and weigh around 19 ounces. One word of warning, avoid buying any cue that does not have a maple shaft. Some cues that are made overseas have ramen wood for shafts. They are the cheapest cues being made today with the lowest quality.
A good starter cue should cost around $50 to $100.
Spending more is unnecessary unless your budget allows. Generally speaking cues in the $200 to $400 range are of higher quality. Anything priced above that you are paying for the name or looks. If I can help more feel free to call me at the shop or email me. Thanks and have fun picking that new cue!
Bryan's Pro Shop 602-371-3992
email: bryan34739@aol.com
Q.
What is the best method to add 1 - 1.5 oz to a light cue stick?
A.
This is a common question in the pro shop. Put simply in all depends on the
make & model of your cue. Some cues are designed to accept a weight bolt.
These bolts come in different sizes and weights. To see if your cue has one
simply remove the bumper and look. If you see a bolt and you can remove it
you might have a chance. Sometimes these bolts are epoxied in so don't break
your wrist if it doesn't come out easily. Good luck.
Bryan Mordt
Q.
You have probably heard this question a million times, but I'm still
going to ask it. I have heard so many opinions on what to use to care for a cue, that I have become very confused. I just purchased a predator cue. In simple terms how would most professionals take care of it. A lot of the people I have asked seem to turn into salesmen and try to sell me some product they endorse. your help would be appreciated
Thanks Tony
A. Hello Tony,
My best advice for simple cue care would be as follows:
1. Use abrasives (600 grit and higher) on the shaft sparingly. NO GREEN PADS AKA Scotch Brite.
2. If you must clean the shaft yourself use Fast Orange hand cleaner. It will remove a lot of chalk stain. Apply it with a damp sponge and rinse it out frequently during the cleaning. Follow up the cleaning with a dry towel and buff well. Use 600 grit paper or higher to improve the texture.
3. Don't leave your cue in the car. Extreme changes in temperature are bad.
4. The butt needs only to be wiped down with a dry soft towel. This includes the wrap. DO NOT get your wrap wet.
5. Use a reputable cue professional in your area. His experience will be valuable.
Thanks,
Bryan Mordt
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Robert at Home.com asks...
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Q.
Does it really affect your game when you go to a pool joint and the
stick you are using is warped? My friend says that it doesn't matter and that I am stupid every time I "roll" my stick on the table. What do you think.
A. Robert,
That depends on the severity of the warp. Minor warps have little if any affect on your game unless it mentally bothers you. Major warping is obviously bad news. Many players look for excuses when it comes to missed shots or bad play. It's usually the Indian and not the arrow.
Thanks,
Bryan Mordt
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Albert at Home.com asks...
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Q.Dear Brian:
I have a Brunswick "Willie Hoppe" Professional Cue. I have had it for
about 37 years. It is in perfect condition, and I was wondering what it
was worth.
Thank You
A. Dear Al,
Your old Brunswick cue is collected by some people. The Blue Book of Pool
Cues by Brad Simpson is a good source of pricing on cues. However, a cue is
only worth what you CAN get for it. The prices in the book are pretty
accurate in my opinion.
Thanks,
Bryan Mordt
Q.
I am considering purchacing my first cue. I am looking at a Buddy Hall
signature series Lucasi L21U. The price is $280.00. Is there any way of
determining the value of a cue stick, especially being new to the sport.
Thanks,
Gary
A. Gary,
The Lucasi line of cues are not collector items so their value is no greater
than the retail price you'll pay. Very few cues hold their value. The cues
that do are usually custom.
Thanks,
Bryan Mordt
Q.Hi Bryan
I'm a 1st time cue owner of a McDermott Breedlove Series. I need your
appraisal of the cue as I don't know much about it except that it feels
great.
Eg: How to care for it? or Can I use an old cotton T-shirt to clean it? And
also why should I wax the shaft before a game? ETC.
Thanks alot
A. Hi Ken,
Congrats on getting your first cue. McDermott's are fine cues and I'm sure
you'll be happy with it. It's not a collector's item so I would expect it do
sell at a price no more than retail if its in perfect shape. As far as the
care a soft cotton cloth is just fine for wiping down the shaft & butt. Do
not use chemicals. Find out who your local cue professional is, they can help
out with maintenance and repairs. If you need anymore help please feel free
to email me.
Bryan
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Norman in Flagstaff asks...
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Q.I have an older McDermott. The D-1 which I bought used in 1987, with carelessness the shaft had become warped, I have consulted Jaz and he said that he could replace it. My question is, he noted that McDermott ferrules are really made to withstand the pressure of the "player". If I get a new shaft will the ferrule be reused or will a new one be used, and is the new ferrule as good a product as the McDermott ferrule. I hope that you can help me make up my mind.
Thanks, Norman
A. Hello Norman,
There are many kinds of ferrule materials available today. Most of which are
very durable. Some examples are: Linen Base Melamine, Aegis I & II, Ivorine
3, and Micarta. On the older McDermott cues fibre ferrules were popular
however I don't recommend it as it is very sensitive to moisture (it can
swell badly). Your old ferrule won't be of much use when it comes time to
make a replacement, you'll need a new one. My personal favorites are Micarta
& LBM. I use the melamine type all the time for repairs and rarely have any
problems with it. I believe the current ferrule material McDermott uses is
Ivorine 3. It's not my first choice because it gets permanently dirty so
easy. I hope the info helped.
Bryan
Bryan's Pro Shop 371-3992
Phx Az
Q.My children bought me an inexpensive cue, which I like. Well, it warped, how do I straighten it, if possible?
Thanks,
A. Well, Eddie,
I hear this question often and have to let you know that there is no reliable
way to straighten a warp in wood. Mother nature has the final say in these
matters. Now, if its just the shaft that is warped you may be able replace
that. I often make replacement shafts for most cues on the market. You can
expect to pay $50 to $75 for a new shaft. Thanks for the good question and
good luck with that cue.
Bryan
Q.This is the first time I've ever replaced a tip and I don't have a clue on
how to do it. Can you tell me everything I need to do from start to finish in
order to have a good looking tip, some of the tools that I'll need.
Thanks a lot
A. Miki,
Replacing a tip on cue sounds easy but it can be tricky without the proper
tools. The adhesive choice is important, at the pro shop I only use QuickGel
by Duro. It's a super glue in gel form and works great. Surface preparation is
the next step. The back of the tip must be sanded smooth and flat. Flatness is
very important, place 120 grit paper on a flat surface and sand the tip.
Here's where it gets tricky. The ferrule must be equally flat in order for the
tip to adhere properly. At this point I don't recommend doing it by hand. A
lathe is required to achieve a proper face cut and have true flatness. There
are hand tools out there but beware of the sanding type these are barely
adequate. I believe Willard's makes a nice tip replacement tool that uses
razor blades but its very pricey. Next step, make sure there's no dust or dirt
on your 2 surfaces and use a small amount of QuickGel on the tip base and
apply the tip to ferrule. After 20 seconds of light pressure the tip should be
on if all was done properly. As you can see Miki, there's a lot of steps here
to doing a great tip job. It's not easy by hand and I highly recommend having
your local pro shop do it. With the right tools and experience this is about a
7 minute job and only costs around $7.00. Good luck.
Q.I have an Excalibur fiberglass stick and someone thought they would help
clean it by running a 3M scotch pad over it. Needless to say the finish
is pretty messed up. What I was wondering is if it can be saved by
refinishing or should I retire it to a breaking stick. If I can refinish
it, about how much does something like that cost? I live in Central
Phoenix and I bought the stick at the Billards Supply over there on 16th
St. just North of McDowell. I also live right next to Shoot the Bull do
you know if either one of them do repair?
Thanks,
Janet
A. Hi Janet,
Uggggggg. You have a mess there I bet. Unfortunately you can't do much at this
point with your cue. I wouldn't recommend refinishing because it's fiberglass
& cost. Professional refinishing costs around $120 and the price of your cue
may not warrant it. Fiberglass & graphite cues are the hardest to work on. I
prefer wood cues for many reasons. For feel, maintenance, and repair nothing
beats a cue made from wood.
Q.This is the first time I've ever replaced a tip and I don't have a clue on how to do it. Can you tell me everything I need to do from start to finish in order to have a good looking tip, some of the tools that I'll need.
Thanks a lot
A. Miki,
Replacing a tip on cue sounds easy but it can be tricky without the proper
tools. The adhesive choice is important, at the pro shop I only use QuickGel
by Duro. It's a super glue in gel form and works great. Surface preparation is
the next step. The back of the tip must be sanded smooth and flat. Flatness is
very important, place 120 grit paper on a flat surface and sand the tip.
Here's where it gets tricky. The ferrule must be equally flat in order for the
tip to adhere properly. At this point I don't recommend doing it by hand. A
lathe is required to achieve a proper face cut and have true flatness. There
are hand tools out there but beware of the sanding type these are barely
adequate. I believe Willard's makes a nice tip replacement tool that uses
razor blades but its very pricey. Next step, make sure there's no dust or dirt
on your 2 surfaces and use a small amount of QuickGel on the tip base and
apply the tip to ferrule. After 20 seconds of light pressure the tip should be
on if all was done properly. As you can see Miki, there's a lot of steps here
to doing a great tip job. It's not easy by hand and I highly recommend having
your local pro shop do it. With the right tools and experience this is about a
7 minute job and only costs around $7.00. Good luck.
Hey,
Q. I've had my McDermott EK-1 for 3 years now and I just made the mistake of
using a dampened paper towel to clean the irish linen on my que, it was quite
dirty and I now have a rough surface feel to it and want to know if what i was
told is true to correct this problem ..
I was told that the wrapping would have to be re-pressed and this will need
to be done on a lathe with some type of steel sleeves ..???? Can you explain
in detail how this is done and maybe warn others not to use water and paper
towels to clean their irish linen wrap... and maybe advise what I should
expect to pay on average for a reputable cue smith ...any well known
talented cue smiths you would recommend here in the Scottsdale area..?
and lastly what type of treatment should be used to keep the linen clean.
A. Hello Scott,
Linen wraps are finished in many different ways. McDermott Cues often press &
sand their wraps to make them feel nice and smooth. If sanded too much or the
wrap becomes wet the fibers of the linen will fray in time and give that rough
feel we all hate. Sometimes this may be fixed by having cue professional work
the wrap. This involves repressing and finishing the linen again. The charge
for this should be reasonable, around $5 to $10. The sure fire fix is a new
wrap, I charge $35 for a linen wrap. I personally like a semi-smooth texture
to my wraps. Fraying becomes less of a problem with this finish type. Caring
for your linen wrap should involve no more than a soft, dry cloth. If you'd
like to keep a new wrap nice, remember cleaner hands = cleaner cue. As far as
reputable cuesmith's in Scottsdale I know only of John Robinson. He is a
custom cuemaker and I don't know how much cue repair he does these days.
However, if your in Mesa you could visit Sierra Custom Cues 962-5506. If your
by North Phoenix, you could visit my shop 371-3992.
Hi Bryan,
Q. Roger Long, in his last article, advised that when buying
a cue to stay away from a brass joint and a screw on tip. I can certainly
understand why someone wouldn't want a screw on tip but why not a brass joint.
I would ask Roger himself but I do not know how to contact him. I would
appreciate it much if you could answer this for me. Thanks, Mick
A. Well Mick,
With regard to brass joints, its a much softer metal than stainless steel.
Stainless provides less chance for marring at the connection point for the
shaft. The problem with marring on the facing is that it may not allow for
proper shaft alignment to the butt of the cue. Thus causing a cue not to be
straight. Another problem would be aesthetics. Brass tarnishes easily while
stainless will retain a nice finish.
Q. The last time I had my tip replaced, the cuemaker also cleaned my shaft.
During this process, he lightly saturated a small pad with what I think was
water to raise the grain slightly. After burnishing, he then used another pad
with a little liquid that was a faint yellow color, rather like diluted lemon
oil. He then burnished the shaft to a high luster and smoothness with a piece
of leather on the lathe. Any idea what that second yellowish liquid might
have been? A sanding sealer of some kind perhaps?
Also, is there anything I should do to preserve the fine boarshide wraps on my
cues other than to wipe them off frequently with a soft terry towel? Should I
ever treat them with anything to keep them in condition??
A.The first liquid used was a lacquer thinner, not water. It cleans and preps the surface. The second liquid is a special lacquer sealer.
Note: I recommend only letting a cue professional do this because a developed process and lathe is required.
Any leather store (Tandy Leather for example) will have a leather protectant that can be used to condition your leather grips.
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Brian in Albuquerque writes...
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Hello Brian,
Q. I just bought a Sneaky Pete...it is my first cue. Can you pass along
all the tips on keeping it in the best shape as possible? I obviously
will keep it out of the heat, and am not going to use it for breaking
(I'll use the house cues for that). I also bought a hard case. I am
looking for maintenance tips, as well as tips to keeping it in the
condition I bought it as.
Also, how often to I scuff the tip, and when would I need to shape it?
A. A good cue should last a very long time, but it must be cared for. Some of my tips include:
On leather tips, the following things can wear your tip down faster.
- Shaping
- Grinding (Cue cubes & Shapers)
- Tapping
- Burnishing
- Breaking
On shafts, don't use abrasives. Examples include green scratch pads, slickers and sandpaper in grits 600 and lower.
The reason being these abrasives will change a shafts taper and could affect how it plays. It also exposes the grain so dirt and chalk dust can enter faster. Just remember all shafts discolor with time, it's normal.
If you want to polish a shaft, use sandpaper in grits higher than 1000.
Do use a soft cloth to wipe down the entire cue.
Do see a cue professional for service. His experience will go a long way in helping with your maintenance and repairs.
Thanks for the good questions.
To submit your question to Bryan, send e-mail to cuestickqa@azbilliards.com
All copyrights are owned by Bryan Mordt. No duplication is allowed without his permission.
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