Roger Long has been a BCA Instructor since 1993. He is the former owner of CuePort Billiards in Lakeland Florida and a regular contributer to Table Talk Newspaper here in Phoenix. His column appears here courtesy of Billiards Table Talk. Previous months columns are available here.
	CLUES ON CUES By Roger Long, BCA Certified Instructor Last month we discussed the importance that the cue tip plays in the proper execution of shots; but what about the rest of the cue? Is it important for beginning players to know any more about cues other than whether or not they are straight? Absolutely! As a matter fact, before players get deeply involved in the game is probably the best time for them to learn all they can about cues. Let me explain. Whenever you hear players discussing their cues you will generally hear descriptive words like "feel" and "hit" being used. These words describe different aspects of the cue that can be defined by examining its construction. The "feel" of the cue actually refers to its balance and weight. Some players prefer a forward balance point and others prefer the balance point to be further back. The things that determine the location of the balance point are: the diameters and tapers of the butt section and shaft; the type of material used in the joint; and the length of the weight bolt. As players get used to a certain feel, they adjust their grip to the feel of that cue. The weight of the cue can affect the type of stroke used. The weight, plus the speed of the stroke, will determine how much kinetic energy is transferred to the cue ball. This means that a light cue has to be stroked faster than a heavy one in order to deliver the same amount of energy. Therefore, the stroke speed that a beginning player develops will be largely determined by the weight of the cue chosen. The "hit" of the cue generally refers to the sensation that is delivered to the player's hand when the cue strikes the ball. The particular hit a cue delivers is determined mostly by the materials used to build it. Things like: the shaft and butt woods and their densities; the ferrule material and style; and the joint material and style. Again, players will have a tendency to feel most comfortable with what they became accustomed to while learning the game. Other factors contributing to a cue's individual popularity will be things like shaft diameter, shaft taper, wrap material, and looks. You might have noticed that I listed "looks" last, but that's not to say that I don't consider the looks of the cue to be important, because I do. After all, would a player want to buy a beautiful cue and then shoot an ugly game? That would be kind of like buying a Ferrari so you could drive slow! Now for the part that the first-time cue buyers have been waiting. What should you look for? Once again, the scope of this article deals basically with choices and the effects they can have on your game, but I might be able to give you just a little more guidance. The Billiard Congress of America's 1997 Official Rule Book lists cue specifications as follows. Width of tip: 9mm minimum / 14mm maximum. Weight: no minimum / 25 oz. maximum. Length: 40 inches minimum / no maximum. I can also tell you that the "average" cue has a tip diameter of 13mm, a weight of 19 oz., and a length of 58 inches. Fortunately, most of the cues stocked in the local billiard stores will have specs close to the average range. When you go to shop for your first cue, find a reputable dealer and tell them what you are looking for. You don't have to spend a fortune. They should have something moderately priced that would be excellent to learn with. Try to buy a cue with a Canadian maple shaft. Just stay away from anything with a brass joint, a ramin wood shaft, or a screw-on tip. Next month we'll start stroking that new cue.   All copyrights are owned by Roger Long. No duplication is allowed without his permission.